How to keep your herp warm and cozy efficiently, reliably and without the use of electricity!
Step #1 Install a self-contained, natural gas, direct vent heater to keep the room warm.
Step #2 Install a self-contained, Propane, un-vented heater just in case electricity becomes so scarce that even natural gas supplies fail. (And because it was on sale at a ridiculously low price. J And connect that to HUGE propane tank out in the yard that is good for at least two years.
Step #3 Cut a big hole in your floor.
Step #4 Sweat some one-inch tubing together.
Step #5 Pour a one-inch layer of concrete.
Step #6 Set your pipe into place.
Step #7 Pour about three more inches of concrete on top.
Step #8 Allow the concrete to set.
Step #9 Install a stand pipe at the highest point in the system to act as a reservoir and expansion chamber.
Step #10 Build a primary heat exchanger.
Step #11 Install the primary heat exchanger.
Step #12 Install a Bunsen burner or similar heat source under the primary heat exchanger.
Step #13 Pipe the exhaust back towards the circulating pipe to help improve efficiency and circulation.
Step #14 Finish the concrete surface with a waterproof finish.
Step #15 Fill the system with a suitable circulating fluid such as water or a water/Glycol mixture and light the burner. (A 50% water and off the shelf antifreeze was used in this system.)
Step #16 Monitor the temperature and carefully adjust the flame output until the desired temperature is obtained.
Notes:
*Before pouring the concrete - A form was made under the floor so that a 3” Diameter, 6” long concrete “cylinder” was created around the input pipe and under the floor.
*When pouring the concrete; a remote sensing thermometer was mounted into the
wall and the cement before it set. This thermometer is the type used on many
hot tubs and spas and does not require any batteries or electricity to operate.
*A Bunsen burner that can run on pretty much any type of gaseous fuel powers this system and a back-up is already orificed and connected to a propane system and can be put in place in a moments notice. Liquid or solid fuels could also power the system using the appropriate burners.
*The system as shown does not have any kind of safety devices to shut off the fuel in the event the flame should be extinguished or become to hot and such a device IS RECOMMENDED. Although I have found that the size flame required is not any bigger than a standing pilot such as that found in most water heaters. And even if the flame went out? This would not be a problem with natural gas in my drafty basement. Propane would be a different story as it tends to settle in low areas.
*The system has insulation covering most of the exposed pipe & heat exchanger and also has a drain valve in case the fluid ever needs to be drained.
*The heat exchanger is built from off the shelf pipe and fittings but has one flaw in that there is air trapped at it’s very top. The system actually worked just fine with the trapped air but I did remove most of the trapped air with a vacuum pump attached to the standpipe. An air “bleed valve” could installed by drilling a small hole at the top of the heat exchanger or by building the heat exchanger in such a manor so that the upper pipe comes out the very top BUT this more customized design would be more difficult and expensive.
*The system pretty much maintains it’s own temperature simply by adjusting the flame size BUT temperature can change with outside changes in room air temperature and the addition of a thermostat would help to maintain a constant temperature. A “hydraulic, remote bulb thermostat” is under consideration for this project as it does not require any electricity and would also incorporate a safety device. But as long as it works fine without the addition of any more parts? I will likely leave it as it stands.
Picture of off the shelf Thermostat
*Although this system seems to be completely safe and appears to work quite well? IT IS STRICTLY EXPERIMENTAL AND NO WARRANTIES, GAURANTIES OR LIABILITIES ARE IMPLIED OR ACCEPTED!
Thank you. J
